At La Cantina, Canberra's newest Italian restaurant, old and new are combined in a unique setting, with rustic Italian food perfectly framed by classic visual cues. You could be forgiven for thinking this restaurant has been here for a hundred years, but that is testament to the vision of food veterans Domenic and Ornella Celestino. Their brand new venture has just opened at Narrabundah shops – down the road from most inner south hotels – and is promising to deliver a classic Italian experience both in food and atmosphere. The fitout at La Cantina is vault-like, with imported salvaged bricks used extensively in the formation of walls and arches, giving an almost subterranean feel to this mediterranean noshery. Heavy framed baroque artworks adorn the wine coloured walls; and parquetry floors, deep brown bench seats and mood lighting complete the picture. Cuisine is straight from the Italian countryside, and aromas from the wood fired oven drift freely through the restaurant. Whilst crusty and mouth watering pizzas are certainly the main product of the oven, expect to see it turning out traditional roasts like goat, lamb or pork, matched with simple and fresh ingredients. Typical is the roasted pork loin with lemon and thyme, served with baby broad beans and a sweet balsamic and red Tropea onion jam. Pastas are house made and include duck filled ravioli with cherry tomatoes and basil in a light cream sauce. ‘La Cantina’ means cellar in Italian, so in keeping with the theme, pick a Penfolds Grange or a Brunello Di Montalcino from the glass walled wine cellar which stocks vintage wines from Australia and Italy – some up to forty years old. The passion for coffee is also evident here with the Celestino's own label, personally selected and grown in Vietnam, sold to drink or take home.